You’ve signed on the dotted line. It’s official: that farm you dreamed of every night as a horse-loving kid is finally a reality! The lush rolling pastures and perfectly tidy stalls you see when you close your eyes are now right in front of you in real life.
You can hardly wait to pack up the horse trailer and move right in. But wait. Is it ready? Are YOU ready?
This was me two years ago, purchasing my very first farm. Excited for the opportunity to finally bring my heart horse to my own address after boarding for so many years. As impatient as I was about moving her in ASAP, I knew there was some necessary prep work to be done. Whether you are starting with empty land or a "hand-me-down" barn, projects are much easier without horses (or other farm animals) around. Trust me.
I’m no expert (after all, this is my first farm), but I’ve put together a list of some main areas that I was sure to address before adding any animals to the homestead.
Fencing
My farm’s fencing was in rough shape. Four-board wood fencing is beautiful, but mine had been neglected. After researching my options, I elected to repair it. Replacement wasn’t an option due to the expensive price tag, but it was unsafe as-is. Post by post and board by board, my battery-powered drill and I evaluated each for safety, removing protruding nails and resecuring loose boards with new screws. Tedious, but necessary for safety. I also replaced a few of the gates and gate latches that had rusted through. A date with the paintbrush for a fresh coat of paint is in my future…
When evaluating your fencing you'll want to first consider the type of animals that you plan to contain as well as their temperament. Rope, tape, electric, wood, there are so many options with various pros and cons to each. I found Google search to be my best friend for this project, reading through dozens of viewpoints, suggestions, and advice to make an informed plan. This could certainly be its own blog post, but the bottom line is that your fencing should be sturdy, durable, and safe.
Pasture Quality/Length
One of my main concerns moving my horse was taking her from an overgrazed boarding barn field to a pasture with thick, long, and green grass. Laminitis, colic, obesity, all concerns circling inside my head. I made a plan to introduce the rich grass slowly, starting with 30 minutes of turnout and slowly increasing the length. She wasn't fan of the increased stall time, but for her health, it was necessary (I have no dry lot). A grazing muzzle can also be a helpful tool to manage grass consumption. Please remember that short grass can also be dangerous during spring and frost when grasses are rich in nutrients. I learned some good information from Tough1's grazing webinar as it dives deeper into this topic.
Walking your pastures takes some time but it’s a good idea to do (and good exercise!). Bring along an animal/grass-safe weed killer and zap those nasty weeds and poisonous plants. If your pasture is beyond walkable, a ride around on the mower/tractor/4 wheeler will also do. During this time make sure you take note of any holes, roots, or rocks that could be hazardous, you’ll want to remove those.
Stall/Barn Setup
My horse is accustomed to day turnout and stalling at night, so a comfortable and safe stall was important. Just like my fencing, the stalls were not in ideal shape. I removed the nasty and worn-out stall mats, and relevelled the floor with new tamped material before placing down brand new mats. One thing that I had to consider for my horse is cribbing. My horse unfortunately cribs, so I did my best to remove/block any solid, flat surfaces to reduce her habit and also purchased a cribbing collar to have on standby if necessary.
Whether or not you stall your horse it's still good to evaluate the barn or shelter you have that will be providing your horse protection from the elements. You’ll want to be sure this space is free from sharp objects (loose bale wire, screws, nails, etc.). Any grain or feed should be "locked" away so that if a horse got loose they would not be able to overindulge. Be sure all doors open or glide smoothly--fix that squeak now instead of later! Lastly, have a designated spot with hooks/hangers ready for keeping halters and other gear organized and easily accessible.
Manure Management
I’ll admit that this one fell to the bottom of my priority list which I regret. Manure takes up a TON of space. If you think you have a designated area planned, make it bigger.
I considered two options: pile it up for composting or rent a dumpster. The dumpster option is certainly not a cheap option, but it’s a good solution if you have limited space or limited equipment (i.e., no tractor for turning your pile). I am giving the composting route a try; we'll see if I can manage a manure mountain. If you are also considering the compost pile route, be sure to remember manure draws insects. A manure pile close to the barn may be convenient but it can also attract flies to the barn. Also, if left open to the elements, there will be run-off from the pile during rainy seasons, keep in mind where that will flow to.
Once I made improvements to the problem areas and made the farm my own, not only did I know my horse would be safe and comfortable, but I felt more confident and prepared to enter into this new adventure.
What came next you ask? Moving day of course! I’ve got some tips for this special day too coming up in a future blog, stay tuned.
